Long Weekend in Taipei

Taipei wasn’t supposed to be on our itinerary, but I’m glad we found a way to stop over.  We had some more relatives to visit, and it seems like it would have been a shame not to visit given that we’re all the way over here. 

Probably influenced by Yo’s family, I had always imagined Taiwan to be a kind of fantasy version of China, filled with warm, courteous people, first-world services, great food, clean streets and clean skies.  I wasn’t disappointed.  While it’s true that there isn’t nearly as much of touristic interest in Taipei as there is in Beijing, it was a nice contrast to Beijing, with its pollution and hassles.  Without the pollution, and with powerful air conditioning everywhere, the Taipei summer was almost bearable.

After arriving very late on Thursday (we followed the successful conclusion of the US team’s first round in the World Cup via Google from the taxi on the way to our apartment, instead of, as we were hoping, on TV), we spent Friday on our own, resting and visiting Taipei 101, one of the tallest buildings in the world.  The best part was the elevator that ascends 90 stories in 30 seconds.

Saturday, we met the “Berts” for lunch – Yo’s identical twin cousins, Elbert and Hubert (their older brother and the third Bert, Norbert, lives in SF).  Beef noodle soup, a Wu family favorite, then off to the Bert’s aunt’s apartment in a suburb via subway, where we spent the afternoon swimming in her pool and relaxing in the a/c.  In the evening, we went with Hubert to one of Taipei’s famous night markets (considered by some to be a separate fourth meal, post-dinner), for oyster omelets and other treats, followed by the best and most unique shaved ice that I’ve ever had.  Made from very thinly shaved flavored chunks of ice, it had the consistence of powdery snow.  Because the ice was flavored, there is no need for syrup.  Hubert and I are discussing plans to import the machines to the US.

Sunday was another family day – the day began with a visit with the Berts' grandparents, now well into their 90s (they were at our wedding and took care of Yo on visits to Taiwan when she was little).  Then we went with Yo's cousin Jiu Rong to go visit the gravesites of Fred's parents out in the suburbs.  We also visited Yo's old street, now almost unrecognizable.  Back to the center for some excellent sushi and a rest, and then dinner with all the relatives at the Academia Sinica, a think tank/university where Jiu Rong works.  The greenery and the quiet modernism reminded me a lot of the campus of the University of Hawaii, where I studied Thai 25 years ago.

I really liked Taiwan, which was such a counterpoint to the grime and hassles of the mainland. But what was especially memorable was the time spent with the relatives there.  In particular, it was great for O&R to be able to meet and spend time with the Berts, who are in their early 30s and full of energy.  I’m glad that O&R have some dynamic younger adult relatives in their lives, like the Berts, Ping and Chris, as most of their aunts and uncles are old and boring, like their parents.