It may sound strange, but arriving in Hong Kong reminded me that I'm Chinese. After 6-ish months bumbling through South America and then a few weeks in Brazil and South Africa, I landed in a place that felt familiar, culturally and linguistically. It felt fabulous.
Granted, I was last in Hong Kong in 1991. A few things have changed. For one, Hong Kong is now officially part of China. It's weird to see the Chinese flag flying everywhere. Mandarin is spoken more widely than before, which is a bit strange to me.
I have been reminded of all the funny gaps in my Chinese. While I can easily order someone to go to bed or brush their teeth, I don't know how to say anything politely. I don't know how to say "credit card" or "reservation." Since I have essentially forgotten how to read and write Chinese, I painfully and embarrassingly feel what it must be like to be illiterate. A waitress looked at me like I was stupid when I pointed at the vegetable section of the menu and then proceeded to ask her what vegetables they had. (The ones written down right in front of you, idiot!)
Neil commented that people in Hong Kong are brusque. He's probably right. But to me, they just seem, well, Chinese. So what if there's some hawking and spitting? Not everyone has time to ask you how you're doing before they sell you a bottle of water.
I know that people in Taiwan are supposed to be much more courteous. We will assess that for ourselves in a few weeks. Mainland Chinese people were seriously rude the last few times I was there. I remember shop ladies in 1987 deliberately ignoring me, the only customer, and a particularly nasty railway agent in Beijing making funny of me for being overseas Chinese, and refusing to assist me and my family in 1991. I'm sure it's different now. Free enterprise has come to China and overseas Chinese are no longer the object of envy or scorn.
Most glaringly, Hong Kong has just grown by leaps and bounds. Being here reminds me that cities are always in flux in ways not visibly noticeable to its inhabitants, who don't have the advantage of time and distance.
Hong Kong is like the most crowded part of Manhattan, times ten, with crazy juxtapositions. Tiny street markets flourish in alleyways between giant, modern skyscrapers, business people mix on the sidewalk with grandmas and toddlers out strolling in their pjs, and food is everywhere -- from bakeries, to noodle shops, to tea houses, to Outback Steakhouse.
After months of travel in places where security has been a big concern, we were shocked to see smartphones blatantly used in the open. Everyone has one, and the wifi is fast and ubiquitous. Cell phones even work in the subway system, which, by the way, is fully air conditioned. Yes, even the platforms are climate controlled.
We have made the most of our first two days in Hong Kong, devoting much time to eating and shopping. After buying clothes more suitable to the tropics (goodbye alpaca!), we happily sent about 50 lbs of winter stuff home today. (Note: Hong Kong post beats the US postal service in price, friendliness, and efficiency).
On the eating front, we had lunch with an old college friend at Maxim's City Hall, a classic dim sum restaurant, and dinner with a former work colleague at the China Club, David Tang's showcase venue. Thai food, noodle soup, and copious amounts of bubble tea filled in the gap.
Tonight, my sisters, brothers in law and nieces arrive. Needless to say, we are besides ourselves with excitement. And I can't wait to see how 9 of us fit into an apartment smaller than our hotel suite in Cape Town!
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