Turning the Page on Ecuador

I'm going to miss this...

....but not this..

Tomorrow is our last day in Ecuador.  We set off before dawn on Monday for Santiago, and I’m already perusing my Chile guidebook – in particular the food section.  Food, for the most part, has been satisfactory in Ecuador, even good at times; but ultimately, it’s not a highlight.

When we first picked Ecuador as the place to spend the first quarter of our sabbatical, we got a range of reactions.  Some people who knew the country well encouraged us and recommended many things to do.  Others, including some NYC-based Ecuadorians we know, were incredulous – Yo’s doctor said, “I can’t imagine spending more than three weeks in Ecuador”.  What were we doing spending so much time in this tiny country of only 15 million when we could be in Argentina, Colombia or Brazil?

We settled on Ecuador for a few reasons – diverse, safe, easy to get around, good Spanish schools, not expensive.  And there is a lot to do here, particularly for people who like the outdoors, as we do.  One of our biking guides said something that really resonated with me: “In Ecuador, you’ll find everything you expect to find in South America.”  He was right.  Spectacular mountains, Amazon rainforest, wildlife, relaxed beaches, vibrant indigenous culture, colonial cities – there’s a lot here. 

And we’ve done it all (well, almost).  After two and a half months, I’ve spent more time in Ecuador than in any other country outside the US, apart from the two I’ve briefly called home, Germany and Thailand.  So I do feel like I’ve gotten a bit of a feel for the place. 

The highlights:

1.     The Andes – I found the stark volcanic peaks and the surrounding countryside to be simply awesome, in every sense of the word.  I wish we could have spent more time exploring them.

2.     The Oriente – Being deep inside the world’s largest forest, surrounded by such a diversity of life that had absolutely no use for me, inspired in me a feeling of smallness that I’ll remember forever.

3.     The Galapagos – A strange place full of exotic animals that have no fear of humans.  Absolutely unique in this world.  Also, nice to see a fragile place where the forces of preservation seem to be defeating those of human development.

4.     The people – Although Ecuadorians have a reputation for being more formal and reserved than their neighbors, we met some really friendly and remarkable people, and even in casual interactions, found that people could not have been kinder or more helpful.

Meh:

1.     The cities and towns – Even the considerable colonial charm of Old Quito and Cuenca couldn’t overcome the concrete, construction, traffic, diesel fumes and generally monotonous character of Ecuadorian towns.

2.     The food – The seafood, particularly the ceviches, can be good, as can the soups.  And the portions are such that you’ll never walk away from a meal in Ecuador hungry.  But there’s a lot of bad food, and not a lot of variety.  I’m ready for a change.

3.     The beaches – I liked the beaches of Ecuador.  And the food on the coast (like the encocados - coconut seafood stews) was far better than in the Sierra.  But they suffer in comparison with the country’s real treasures.  The Andes, the Oriente and the Galapagos are absolutely amazing.  The beaches are just nice.

So what would I do differently?  Not much, maybe trim a day or two here and there – a couple of fewer days on the coast, a couple more in the mountains.  It’s been a great two months in so many ways.  As I write this, in the Ali Shungu lodge, overlooking the Andean town of Otavalo, I’m watching the evening clouds roll in as the volcano Imbabura fades from view.  I’m going to miss Ecuador.  But I read that the lamb and seafood in Chile are fantastic!