Tuesday, April 15, 2014

36 hours in Lima, mas o menos

Posted by Alicia Villarosa, guest blogger
All photos from Lorry's book.

I left New York Tuesday afternoon on my way to Cusco.  In around 48 hrs I would  meet up with La Familia Wu-Platt.  But first a side trip to Lima to visit my sort of brother in law Lorry Salcedo…for details in the exact nature of our relationship you’ll have to ask Yolanda. Two movies (Nebraska and World War Z) and 10 hours later I touched down in Lima and it was just before midnight when Lorry welcomed me Pisco in hand to his beautiful apartment in Barranco.  Fifteen minutes outside of Lima, Barranco sits atop a cliff overlooking the ocean.  It’s the trendy but laid back area where lots of artists live and is VERY different from its Miraflores, the next town over.  Imagine Barranco like Brookyn with a hip, cool vibe while Miraflores screams Miami Beach.  When I arrived Lorry was busy working with his assistant/man servant Marco prepping for his a big party the next night to celebrate the release of his photo book about the Huamachuco region.  The Pisco and my long day of travel kicked in and half an hour later he wished me buenos suertes and was fast asleep. 



The next day Marco and I crisscrossed the city running errands in traffic that makes the LA freeway look as uncongested as the Autoban and Marco informed me that rush hour was “every hour”. Back at the apartment I decided to go for a pre party run which essentially means running down a winding path to the ocean, a brief jog along the water and then in a lung searing ascent back up the hill to the apartment.  With lungs in hand I collapsed un-gloriously in a sweaty heap, at the door.  Time for cerveza and siesta.  Revived and dressed (up) I met Lorry at the party that overflowed onto the street with over a hundred people.  It was a blur of introductions, presentation of diplomats, honorees and featured an exhibit of Lorry’s colorful portraits of native Huamachuquinos.  Wine and including finger  sandwiches were served made with egg salad, ground almonds, olive spread and the national condiment, mayonnaise, oddly delish.




I was shoveling in sandwiches and practicing my terrible Spanish when Marco whisked me away to an intimate dinner for family and friends at a fancy restaurant across the street.  Our private room was lined with earthen Pisco jars and the moment we sat down, pisco, wine and appetizers began a nonstop rotation.  Lorry’s sisters and (other) sisterinlaws spontaneously broke out in traditional Peruvian songs and someone from the restaurant brought out a drum as accompaniment.  I knew the evening was just starting.  Just as my bedtime rolled around we ordered dinner.  One look at my seafood cazuela and my appetite rallied and I ate every bite.   Midnight marked the arrival of multiple deserts and drinks and also the end of the rally. No Mas!  Finally El Jefe, a man at the head of the table who appeared to be in charge called for toast.  He thanked Lorry, and EVERYONE in attendance and made a speech but by that time I could barely keep my head off the table.  At 2am the party finally broke up and  EL Jefe drove us home in his chauffeured car. Goodbyes were said, and after he gave me sloppy kiss I remember him saying to Lorry how much he liked me but it could never work because I was “mas alta” too tall.



The next day as I departed for Cusco Lorry told me the story of El Jefe.  He was from Huamachuco and become a multimillionaire in the fishing industry and was still very connected to the region.  Lorry knew he was someone who like to be flattered and set out to court him by dedicating an entire page in he book to him as well as in honoring  him at the party. El Jefe in turn had paid for the entire dinner, bought 100 books on the spot and purchased the whole collection of photos.  As I congratulated Lorry on a job well done, he said “just another a typical night for me here in Peru.  That’s why I’m coming for a visit next month to New York, I need to rest.”


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