Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Changes in Altitude, Changes in Attitude

Came down from Cuenca to Guayaquil yesterday.  Stunning ride.  Left Cuenca in a public van service ("furgoneta"), at 9:45.  Straight uphill for almost an hour to about 14,000 feet, then straight downhill through a cloud on a very windy road.  Visibility was very poor as we descended, but the driver knew what he was doing and the road was very good.  I had some bad sinus congestion which really started to hurt as we descended so quickly.  After an hour of descent we were in the tropics.  Flat as a board for the last hour and a half through fruit plantations and into Guayaquil, the temperature now easily twenty degrees warmer and now very humid.  Unbelievable how much can change in the course of a 3 1/2 hour ride.

Didn't get much of a chance to see Guayaquil, but what we did see reminded me of a sprawling third-world version of Miami.  The city has a terrible reputation for safety, according to just about every Ecuadorian we've ever met (even those from Guayaquil), and there's supposedly not much to see, so we didn't feel much need to venture out.

In fact, the entire purpose of going there was to meet up with my brother Gordon and his family.  They just returned from a week long trip to the Galapagos with my sister-in-law's extended family, about 20 people.  It was great to see them for an afternoon at the Hilton where the kids hung out in the pool and we all got a taste of fancy hotel life for a few hours.

As I write this, we're now with Gordon's family out on the beach, in Ayampe, a few hours north of Guayaquil, preparing for 2014!  More to come...

Sunday, December 29, 2013

El Cajas - One more time!

We got up early this morning for one last jaunt in the mountains of El Cajas (see last trip report here) before leaving Cuenca.  This time, we went to an area of the park closer to Cuenca, at much lower elevation (around 3100m or 10,000 feet vs last time when we were at 13,000+ feet).  The landscape was quite different, cloud forest instead of paramo, or grassland.  The conditions were much more forgiving, with higher temperatures and no real impact of the altitude on our breathing.

We took a taxi from our front door about 25 minutes up to Laguna de Llaviuco (or sometimes, Llaviucu), at the lower reaches of El Cajas.  The first 15 minutes of the car ride was on the main foad up to Cajas, and then on to Guayaquil.  The last 10 minutes were along a steep narrow road paved with huge stones, that wound steeply down, and then up a stream bed to the parking area for the Laguna.  From there, we set off on a flat 3 hour hike past the Laguna, which sits in a valley between two steep mountains, and then into the valley as it narrowed past the lake, the well-marked trail following the cascading stream that feeds the lake.  We made it up to the end of the valley, and then returned along the developed trail on the other side of the lake.

The cloud forest and the mountains were unbelievable.  The trail alternated between closed-in cloud forest where orchids seemed to grow from every other tree, to wide open wetland, with stunning views up the near-vertical mountains close on either side.  I feel like it's very difficult (at least for me) to capture the grandeur of mountains with photography.  Some photos below, but they don't really do it justice...

Laguna Lluviuco

Huge flower

Wild llamas checking us out

Oscar checking out the llamas

More llamas

Like something from Lord of the Rings



Along the stream up the valley

As far as we got, looking back toward the lake



Saturday, December 28, 2013

Things I'll miss in Cuenca

Three weeks was a long time to stay in one place.  I say this only because we have a lot of ground to cover over 8 months, not because I got bored in Cuenca.  In fact, I absolutely loved Cuenca and easily could have stayed longer.

I loved the scale of the city -- walkable, containing enough distinct neighborhoods to keep it interesting. Cuenca has two large mercados in the centro (for those of you who want the farmers market experience), three SuperMaxis (if you like your food shopping more first worldy), delicious restaurants serving $3 almuerzos (three course lunches), as well as cafes with gringo food and fast wifi, a symphony orchestra and youth orchestra that are reportedly quite good, numerous book stores (I'm collecting Ecuadorian book recommendations so I can improve my Spanish), churches galore, amazing public spaces filled with trees, flowers, and the best people watching in the world.

The Parque Calderon is filled on any given day with senior citizens sitting and chatting on benches, ladies selling espumilla (sweet, pastel colored meringue/cream disguised as ice cream) and homemade potato and plantain chips, tourists, business people, students in uniforms, indigenous people from the campo, the guy who will you pose for holiday pictures with his large St. Bernard, lottery ticket sellers ($3 million!!), and families strolling and hanging out.  Oh, and don't forget, Cuenca is surrounded by gorgeous, soft, green mountains.  The southern sierra in all its glory is always visible beyond Cuenca's narrow cobblestoned streets and adobe walls.  The people here are also incredibly friendly.  As transient gringos passing through town, we were routinely greeted with smiles and pleasant conversation.  Even when thousands of people descended on Cuenca for el Pase del Niño, the atmosphere in town was safe and hassle-free.

Thank you, Arie, for renting us your beautiful, spacious and quiet house.  And thanks for introducing us to your friends.  Tony and Michelle, Todd, Adam and Carmen, and everyone else we met in Cuenca, thanks for the Christmas Eve party, the travel advice, and for the game of ultimate frisbee!

Ultimate frisbee with resident gringos on Christmas Day

What I will miss about Cuenca:

1.  The amazing selection of fresh fruit and vegetables in the markets.
2.  Cooking and relaxing at Arie's house
3.  Our wonderful teachers at La Escuela Simón Bolívar, Señora Elena and the rest of our host family
4.  The beautiful architecture in the Centro and its mountain setting
5.  El Cajas and Baños -- unique excursions that are easily within reach of Cuenca.

O&R with Sra Elena, Carlos & Lourdes

What I won't miss about Cuenca:

1.  Hand washing laundry
2.  Diesel belching buses
3.  Narrow sidewalks and slow-moving pedestrians
4.  Not being able to throw toilet paper in the toilet (not unique to Cuenca)
5.  Fireworks at 5:30 a.m.

We leave Cuenca on the 30th, well-rested and ready to celebrate New Years at the beach with the Chaps Platts and Katzs.  We'll be at the beach for the next 2 weeks, then will head inland to Mindo and the cloud forest, then to the Sierra again, and ending our 2.5 months in Ecuador at the Galápagos Islands.



It's not a party until the smoke alarm goes off . . .

. . . even if it's at lunch time.


A smoldering monigote (effigy) at the end of the new years celebration at the Escuela Simón Bolívar.

With the streets of Cuenca barely cleared of the detritus of El Pase del Niño and attendant Christmas celebrations, masks, effigies, and fireworks galore started appearing at street corners and stores across the city.  Last night, people were burning effigies on the streets -- very exciting for the kids!

An early new year's party yesterday was the perfect way to wrap up three weeks of Spanish school. Neil was a good sport about learning, at the last moment, that he had been appointed la viuda (widow). La viuda cries, dances, begs for money, and generally carrries on during the fiesta.  It is best if the viuda is a tall, handsome man (naturally Neil was selected), and funniest if he dresses sexy (Neil had more of the crazy housewife look).



The rest of the party-goers wear masks, wigs, and costumes.


Which one is Oscar, which one is Ruby?

We drank canelazo (a hot drink made with cinnamon and aguardiente), played traditional games like limbo and clay pot piñata, and ate small chancho sandwiches.  Oscar's teacher, Paty, performed a karoake song.  Ruby and I played violin.



La viuda's fencing prowess helped!

Then, there was a presentation of the manigotes, two teachers from the school -- one is moving to the U.S., and the other had a lot going this year.


"Honoring" them this way allowed us to wish them luck, and gave them a way to reflect on their lives and find ways to change.  One teacher read funny poems about them.


Then, the big attraction, -- FIRE!!  It's good luck to jump over a burning manigote.



Oscar in action (yes, that's my scream)

Given that the manigote inferno was happening inside a covered courtyard, it was only a matter of time before the smoke alarm went off, we were getting asphyxiated, and it was time to bid farewell to our wonderful teachers in Cuenca.  ¡Grácias por todo lo que nos han enseñado!


Neil, R & O's teachers -- Katy, Alejandra, and Patricia


Marta (Yo's teacher), Fausto and Sondra

Wednesday, December 25, 2013

More Pictures and Videos from El Pase del Niño




Cuy on a float


Chicha distribution.  



Christmas breakfast

Special treat for O&R this morning -- rapiditos con huevos.  It's not something I'm proud of, but ramen noodles (aka rapiditos) are such a comfort food.


Sunglasses at the table are acceptable when the dining room is essentially a greenhouse (like most typical Cuencan courtyards, the one in our house is covered with glass).  


Anyone care to guess where rapiditos sold in Ecuador are made?


El Pase del Niño

As I write this on Christmas morning, Cuenca is at the start of a long day of rest.  Christmas Eve is the big day here, all centered around the biggest local fiesta of the year, El Pase del Niño (translated loosely by me as "The Voyage of Baby Jesus").   It involves bringing a small statue of Baby Jesus from one place to another, less than a mile away, but that's an infant-sized understatement.  What it really is is the longest parade I've witnessed, or even heard of - about nine hours of non-stop parading!

Things kick off around 8am with an unending spectacle of bands, dancers, floats, and marchers, with a particular emphasis on showing off traditional costumes, both from the area, and from all over Ecuador. Lots of people also dressed like biblical characters.  There is a tradition of giving away food and drink.  In earlier times, people used to carry huge feasts through the parade and then host open communal meals at the end.  Yesterday, we saw a lot of people giving away fancy bread and rolls (a big thing here in Cuenca), candy and other things.  Many of the floats are decorated with fresh fruit, bread and other treats.  My favorite are the "chanchos" or entire roast pigs that get paraded around, in addition to the occasional duck and guinea pig.  I was sorry to have only seen a few of these pass while I was watching.  In addition, there were a few big trucks sponsored by local VIPs who have been chosen as "padrinos" (godparents) of the parade, giving away snacks and "chicha", a fermented corn beverage, all day long.

Our day went like this:  School at 8:30, as usual; then viewing the parade with our teachers for a couple of hours; home for a break; then to an afternoon party, a gathering of local resident gringos (worth another post) at an amazing apartment overlooking Parque Calderon, the terminus of the parade; then home for another break; then more parade viewing; then a walk and some coffee after the whole thing finally wound down around 4pm.

At that point, most Cuencanos head to family gatherings, to eat, exchange presents and and possibly go to church, until 2am or so.  But we were pretty spent, so went home and had some take-out roast chicken and called it a day.

Here are just a few photos from the very long parade:

At the start of the day.  We later went to a party on the top floor of the tall building on the right.






Chancho on a stick!


O&R with their teachers, Alejandra and Patricia

This calf couldn't take the hours of marching and opted out.

Chicha break - just the thing for a mid-morning pick-me-up

With the first female candidate for Mayor in Cuenca's history!

At the party overlooking the Parque

More Chancho!





Monday, December 23, 2013

Feliz Cumpleaños a Ruby!

Big day for us today - Ruby turned 11!  She's been looking forward to it for a long time, as she does every year.  Today did not disappoint.  Special birthday breakfast with cards and gifts from us, then a special cake and song during the mid-morning break at school.  Then an afternoon in Baños, the nearby spa town for some soaking in the sun and the thermal pools.  Dinner was at a better-than-I-expected Italian restaurant in the Centro, where Ruby had her favorite artery-clogging type of food - cheese, pasta and cheese, with some cream, oil and more cheese.  We wrapped it up at the ice cream place in the Parque Calderon at the center of the city with banana splits.


Birthday Breakfast


At School

Baños

Massive Banana Splits


Not a bad way to turn 11.  And the party's just getting started.  Tomorrow is Christmas Eve, which is a huge day here in Cuenca.  The whole city participates in El Pase del Niño, a day-long parade in which people dress up in all sorts of costumes and carry food and drink around, and some other stuff, about which I'll know more tomorrow.


Saturday, December 21, 2013

Running Hard

So despite the best of intentions, I haven't gotten much real exercise here in Ecuador.  Yes, we've been walking quite a bit, but I only consider walking real exercise when it's a quad-pounding multi-hour hike, not the languid stroll which seems to be the norm here.  I knew it would be difficult to get into a regular running routine, and I didn't worry because I've been concerned that all my running is doing some real damage to my feet, and I've come to realize that in any event, I don't like running all that much.  I still like it at times, but I'm more of a once or twice a week runner.  For exercise, I was really counting on keeping up my daily yoga practice, or at least some semblance of it.  But for reasons so vague that I can't even think of them now (cramped quarters? no yoga mat? dirty floors?), I've let that go for the past three weeks.

But now as a result of possibly spending all this family time together, which has otherwise been (mostly) wonderful, I think I'm starting to get a bit pent up.  Time for a run.

You don't see many runners on the streets of Cuenca.  Sure there are some, very early in the morning, or along the Tomebamba, the narrow rushing stream that forms the southern border of the historic center.  You certainly don't see them near our place, right in the center, partly because of the constant vehicle and pedestrian traffic.  Running in the streets is a complete non-starter (even traversing a crosswalk with the light can be challenging) and the sidewalks vary from a barely comfortable five feet wide to a mostly theoretical six inches, often within the same block.  I just don't think running is a big thing here.  And that may be partly because it seems like a pretty industrious place.  Perhaps not entirely by choice, everyone here seems to be working all the time.  There aren't lots of people filling the parks in the middle of the day like in New York.  Maybe running is more of a First World pastime, with people here conserving their time and calories for better uses.

So, after sleeping in for the first time in a while (Oscar until almost 12!), and a slightly-off fast food "brunch" of fried things and yogurt shakes, I strapped on my hiking shoes which look a bit like over-stylized brown running sneakers, and set off through the center for the Tomebamba.

I made it across the few blocks of the center to the stairs down to the river in about eight minutes, not too bad considering the pre-Navidad shopping crowds.  From there, I ran downstream along the river road which was actually kind of pleasant.  I like the rushing, rocky energy of the Tomebamba, but it seems a bit out of scale, as if Cuenca has outgrown it.  When the city was a colonial settlement, it must have seemed mighty, but now it strikes me as the kind of thing that would form the centerpiece of a picturesque hamlet in Vermont or the Black Forest, rather than a city of half a million.

I ran about a mile downstream, then crossed over one of the many bridges and circled back on the other bank.  Big mistake to run downstream first, because, well, it's down.  I sucked wind the whole way back, so much so that I barely noticed the Cuencanos riding bikes, walking dogs and doing other weekend city stuff along the path as I huffed by.  I'm glad I got out anyway.  It helped clear my head and was at least a small step towards the great leap of daily exercise.  I don't even feel bad about my less than spectacular time (maybe about 3 miles in a bit over 30 minutes) -- I can blame the heat, the diesel fumes, the clunky hiking boots...and did I mention that we're at 8,500 feet up here?

Might do some yoga tomorrow.

Friday, December 20, 2013

Friday! (And some happy anniversary wishes)

Friday means we're done with classes for the week.  We celebrated with an outing for what are supposed to be the best hamburgers in Cuenca, which were indeed pretty good, at a fancy cafe in Parque San Sabastian, my favorite spot in the center of Cuenca.

We took a few minutes to lunch to call my parents, who are visiting my brother and his family in Florence, to wish them a Happy 55th Anniversary!  Another great milestone in a long, happy time together.

It's fitting that they are in Italy on this big day.  My siblings and I are all big travelers, an avocation which comes from our parents, who took us on extended trips abroad starting when we were very young (and international travel was considerably more difficult...they didn't even have tripadvisor, if you can believe it).  If our parents had not opened up our eyes to the possibilities of travel when we were kids, it's unlikely that I would have travelled as much as I have, or that it would have ever even occurred to us to embark on this big trip.

So...Thanks Mom & Dad...And Happy Anniversary from Cuenca!!!

Happy Anniversary from the Andes!


Thursday, December 19, 2013

Adventures in Cooking

I successfully made Marta's cocktail tonight -- La bebida de la pasión

Ingredientes:

1.  3-4 maracuyás (passion fruit)




2.  ron (blanco o negro)
3.  miel de abeja
4.  hielo

preparación:

Saque el jugo del maracuyás (con tenedor)



Ponga en la licuadora

Añada medio vaso de ron

Agregue dos cucharaditas de miel de abeja

Licue y sirva con hielo


Stay tuned for tomorrow's installment -- jugo de papaya with the world's largest papaya.